With some of the most reliable snow in Colorado and a mountain famous for its long, groomed runs and wide-open terrain, Vail has earned a reputation that stretches far beyond the Rockies.
Built in 1962 by veterans who trained with the US Army’s 10th Mountain Division, Vail was designed for skiing first and everything else second—and that logic still shapes the area. Runs spill directly into town; après bars sit just feet from the lifts; and the sidewalks are heated so you can shuffle around in your ski boots without slipping on ice. Yes, really. Today, Vail is one of the country’s largest ski areas, with more than 5,300 acres and dozens of lifts that spread snow-chasers across front-side cruisers and glades, and to the kind of back-bowl skiing that people plan whole trips around.
But the appeal doesn’t stop at the edge of the runs. The valley stays busy year-round with fly-fishing, hiking, biking, and scenic gondola rides once the snow melts. There are two main areas of town—Vail Village and Lionshead—where walkways wind past gear shops, cocktail bars, galleries, and hotels built for relaxing after a day on the mountain. They're closely followed by Golden Peak, a less-crowed base known for its ski school. So whether you’re here for winter powder or long summer afternoons, Vail offers a mix of outdoor adventure and village ease that’s hard to match in the Rockies.
How to get there
Most travelers land at Denver International Airport, then drive the two hours west through the mountain pass on I-70. It’s an easy trip in good weather, though much slower during snowstorms (which are frequent and can close the road due to dangerous conditions or accidents). If you’d rather skip the highway roulette, Eagle County Regional Airport (EGE) is just 30 minutes from the village and has seasonal nonstop flights from more than a dozen US cities, including Washington, DC, San Diego, and Seattle. From Eagle, shuttle services like Epic Mountain Express or private transfers from Summit Express can drop you at your hotel or Airbnb door, skis and bags included. Once you’re in town, the free bus system connects Vail Village, Lionshead, and Golden Peak, and the whole place is walkable—even in ski boots.
Where to eat
Few ski towns can match Vail’s dining pedigree. Sweet Basil, open since 1977, remains the benchmark for creative American fare—order the Colorado beef tenderloin or whatever seasonal pasta is on special, and trust the sommelier’s pairing. Downstairs, sibling restaurant Mountain Standard takes a more rustic approach—an open wood-fire grill perfumes the air with hickory smoke and turns out trout, roasted vegetables, and perfectly charred pork chops.
This winter sees the opening of Zuma, the 25th outpost of the internationally recognized Japanese izakaya-style restaurant brand. Last season, it was Tavernetta Vail that drew attention, the latest from the team behind Boulder’s Michelin-starred Frasca Food & Wine, at the Four Seasons. There you can expect handmade pastas, airy focaccia, and a dessert menu heavy on Northern Italian favorites. Visit the “Spritz Window” just outside if you don’t have time for a full meal—modeled after the wine windows in Tuscany and Northern Italy, imbibers can ring a doorbell to have their orders taken through the window.
A few blocks away, Chasing Rabbits blurs the line between restaurant, bar, and art and entertainment venue. It's Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, aptly named The Restaurant, serves dishes like salmon crudo and braised rabbit bolognese. Down the hall, the Rabbit Hole is a classic arcade-meets-club with frequent DJ sets, while Moon Rabbit delivers inventive cocktails in a speakeasy setting.
For a more laid-back meal, Alpenrose dishes out bubbling pots of fondue and delicious schnitzel in a timbered dining room hung with cowbells and red gingham. For breakfast, The Little Diner in Lionshead remains the move for green-chile burritos and fluffy pancakes before first chair. And for skiers who want something quick between runs, look no further than the Avanti Vail food hall, which features a mix of local chefs and fast-casual stalls.
On-mountain dining includes Two Elk Lodge, a classic midday stop with sweeping views of the mountains, and The 10th, an elevated lunchtime experience complete with white tablecloths and boot-check service.
Après-ski in Vail starts the moment you click out of your bindings—sometimes at the base, sometimes halfway down the mountain if you opt for a leisurely lunch. There’s no single script: some people sip Vail Brewing beers from beach chairs in the snow, others nurse a hot chocolate on a heated deck while a local band works through '80s covers. Spots like Red Lion and Garfinkel’s are popular, often boisterous options with sports bar fare and strong pours, while Root & Flower offers something a bit more polished with inventive craft cocktails.
Where to stay
Vail’s lodging scene is as varied as its terrain, and most of the accommodations are split neatly between its two main bases: Vail Village and Lionshead. Vail Village has the more classic, pedestrian feel—cobblestone streets, boutique shops, and historic hotels—while Lionshead is newer, with wider walkways and easier access for families.
For classic alpine luxury, the Four Seasons Resort Vail continues to set the standard—find sprawling rooms with stone fireplaces, marble soaking tubs, and pint-sized balconies, plus a year-round pool deck and a ski concierge setup that handles everything from boot warming to slope-side storage. Across the creek is Sonnenalp Hotel Vail, a Bavarian-inspired hotel with gabled roofs, wood-carved balconies, and palatial rooms with hand-painted furnishings and fireplaces. Also nearby in Vail Village, Gravity Haus Vail offers a modern take on mountain lodging (some of the rooms feature bunk beds) and a more social atmosphere with two buzzy on-site eateries (Slope Room and Unravel Coffee) plus a new Spa and Recovery Lounge boasting contrast therapy, guided mobility, and Normatec treatments for post-ski recovery.
Steps from the Eagle Bahn Gondola in Lionshead, The Arrabelle at Vail Square leans fully into its European inspiration, with arched stone façades, wrought-iron balconies, and oversized rooms that feel more like alpine apartments than hotel suites. Nearby, Antlers at Vail offers something special—here you'll find condominium-style units (studios through four-bedrooms) with kitchens, gas fireplaces, and private balconies, plus access to a year-round heated outdoor pool, hot tubs, on-slope ski and snowboard storage, and complimentary ride services within Vail Village.
If your crew is larger or you prefer renting a multi-bedroom condo, Vail also offers a spectacular roster of fabulous Airbnbs (many with full kitchens, hot tubs, and mountain views). Rentals fill quickly during peak season—lock in early for the best layout. Here are a couple to get you started:
Where to play
The mountain dominates life here, and for good reason—Vail offers a little something for every type of skier. Beginners tend to stay near Lionshead Village, where wide, well-groomed runs like Born Free build confidence, while intermediate skiers gravitate toward Game Creek Bowl and Northwoods. Experts, however, head straight for the Back Bowls—seven distinct expanses of high-alpine terrain and (often waist-deep) powder that stretch on for miles. On snowy days, there’s no better place to be. If you’re new to the sport or want to cover more ground, a private mountain guide is worth it—they’ll string together routes that connect the mountain in a way you probably wouldn’t discover on your own.
For a break from downhill, the Vail Nordic Center has groomed cross-country and snowshoe trails that weave through quiet pockets of forest east of town. Solaris Plaza turns into an outdoor ice-skating rink festooned with twinkling lights and wreathed by restaurants and firepits. Or try a guided snowmobile tour into Vail’s backcountry—operators like Sage Outdoor Adventure offer guided rides through private acreage full of frozen rivers and open meadows. About 25-minutes south of town, Camp Hale, the former training grounds of the 10th Mountain Division, is now a national monument with easy trails and interpretive signs that explain how soldiers learned winter warfare in the same valley you’re standing in.
In town, the free Colorado Snowsports Museum is far more fun than its modest size suggests. Inside, you’ll find everything from neon-splashed '80s ski suits to original 10th Mountain Division gear, plus a trove of quirky artifacts that chart Colorado’s rise as a ski state—think retro lift tickets, vintage boards, and early avalanche beacons that look more like science projects than safety devices.
Take a break from winter sports by exploring Vail’s shopping scene. Bridge Street and the surrounding lanes are lined with a mix of high-end skiwear outfitters, local boutiques, art galleries, and, increasingly, Western-wear shops. In recent years, cowboy hats have popped up around every corner, helped along by spots like Kemo Sabe—the go-to for custom Stetsons, Lucchese boots, and silver buckles, all fitted with a drink in hand at the store’s small bar—and Alpine Kind, where visitors can design their own felt hat and personalize it with ribbons, feathers, and vintage charms.
When the winter thaws, the pace in Vail shifts but doesn’t slow. Melted snow turns the mountain into a network of hiking and biking trails, from the steady climb up Booth Falls to the gentler paths along Gore Creek. Gondolas run for foot passengers in summer, making it easy to reach high-alpine meadows without much effort, and the valley fills with outdoor concerts, weekend markets, and festivals that take over the village squares. Fly-fishing on the Eagle River is at its best in late spring and fall, and the golf courses—surrounded by aspens and idyllic mountain views—stay busy well into October. It’s a different Vail, but just as breathtaking.
